Six weeks, six provinces.

A quick update on our current state of affairs:

Six weeks have passed since our return to Canadian soil. In that time, we have been lucky enough to to set foot in six of Canada’s ten provinces.

Nomads we have become, having returned only briefly to Edmonton in between jaunts here and there to connect with family and friends spread across this vast country.

While the constantly changing scenery and ongoing reunions have made the past six weeks a fun and exciting time, we are hoping that August brings about a bit more stability, and that September yields a teaching job for Mel.

At the same time that we long to be settled, we are trying to embrace each moment and physcial location we find ourselves in, and savour this time to reacquaint ourselves with our beautiful home country and the people within it.

Thanks, Canada, for the warm welcome home.

Siem Reap: Getting there.

Though it is difficult to tell from this photo, crossing the border from Thailand into Cambodia at the sordid town of Poipet was perhaps one of the more chaotic experiences in our journey.

The crossing itself went relatively smooth- there were no lines or hangups at the border, but it was immediately upon entering into Cambodia that the chaos began.

While trying to locate the bus that was supposed to take us the rest of the leg in our journey, we were swarmed by a number of aggressive touts (sales people) trying to sell us items and transport services. We were told that our bus had already left, and were bombarded by by taxi drivers trying to take us to Siem Reap.

With the cultural gap, it was difficult to tell the shady characters from those that could be trusted. It seemed that most people (who approached us anyways) had ulterior motives for personal gain.

We still had 150km to go in our journey, and weren’t quite sure about who to trust to get there.

Going with the theory that there is greater safety in numbers, we found ourselves another young pair of travelers from Spain, and teamed up to find a taxi that would give us a fair rate. With a little bargaining, we found a driver who agreed to our price of $35, and hopped in his car.

At this point, we were getting into an unknown person’s vehicle, completely trusting that they were taking us to the right destination.

Lucky for us, our taxi driver turned out to be a trustworthy fellow who liked to honk his horn. Constantly. Not to tell people to get out of the way, but moreso to let everyone else on the road know that we were passing through.

While driving in Cambodia, it can be difficult to discern, at times, the direction of traffic flow. Do you drive on the right, or on the left? It appears that the right side is generally the more acceptable one, but left is ok too. The two hour journey from Poipet to Siem Reap was an interesting, needless to say noisy, two hour journey.

Once within Siem Reap, we were dropped in a parking lot where two separate tuktuks were waiting. The driver told us to get out and go with these people, who would take us the rest of the way to our hotel. We were definitely confused and highly suspicious at this point. It took a bit of convincing on the driver’s part to assure us that this was not a scam. “It’s ok, my friend,” he turned and said to Brendon.

Luckily, it all worked out, and we soon enough arrived safely at our hotel, The Golden Mango.

We’ll leave you with just a few snapshots of our first glimpses of Cambodia, before we debrief in more detail through the next few posts.

Breno and Mel’s Thai Food Awards.

THE FOOD.

One of things we were most excited about prior to our trip to Thailand was the food. We couldn’t wait to surround ourselves with the tastiest Pad Thai, and discover all sorts of Thai delicacies that we hadn’t yet fathomed.

To our surprise, however, we discovered Thai people don’t just eat Thai food. As it turns out, sometimes Thai people like a bit of Mexican, or Turkish, or a good Italian pizza.)

Finding the best Thai food in Thailand turned out to be a bit of a mission, but we did track down some extremely tasty Thai delights and would like to hand out some awards to the dishes that stood out the most to us in a number of categories.

Best vegetarian dish: Pomello & Coconut Salad from Khun Churn, a delightful vegetarian restaurant in the northern city of Chiang Mai that we searched for hours to find (and eventually did!)

Most unique curry: Pineapple Curry from the Koh Mak Resort Restaurant.

Best surf dish: The fish red curry from Koh Kood Resort.

Best turf dish: Chiang Mai Sausage (mentioned in a previous post), available from the Gourmet Market at Siam Paragon in Bangkok.

Best Pad Thai: The Pad Thai we enjoyed at the Thai Navy Restaurant with our friends from Thai Orchid. A good pad thai was surprisingly hard to track down in Thailand- especially in the North, where it was almost non-existent on menus.

Best street food: A flavorful yellow curry with pork enjoyed from this street stand on our very first morning in Bangkok (before we were cautioned by our Thai Orchid friends to only eat street food that was cooked before our eyes.)

Most healthful dish: Morning Glory. Available pretty much anywhere, though not often on the street. Basically, it’s a stringy green vegetable called “morning glory,” fried with garlic and sometimes a bit of red pepper. Simple, but tasty and healthful. An excellent way to get your greens while in Thailand.

Freshest flavors: Som Tam. This refreshing salad consists of grated green papaya and carrot, seasoned and tossed with peanuts and lime juice. Sometimes it comes with dried shrimp. Available at most Thai restaurants.

Best use of fresh herbs: Spicy Mango Salad from Oasis, Koh Chang. Similar to Som Tam, but jam-packed with fresh basil and a bit of a kick from some chilies.

Best breakfast: Thai Rice Soup from Oasis, Koh Chang.

Best breakfast on the go: Thai Coconut Yoghurt. Available at your nearest 7-11.

Most delightful fruit: Mangosteen. Available from streetside fruit vendors everywhere.

Best ambiance: This lovely little open air restaurant with wicker lighting, located down one of the side soi’s along Nimmanhemin, Chiang Mai.

Best service: Siam House, in the Silom district of Bangkok. Also home to the best green curry.

Best beverage: On a hot day in Thailand, nothing beats a fresh coconut shake (served in the real thing) from the beachfront restaurant at Siam Beach Resort, on Lonely Beach, Koh Chang.

Best dessert: Mango sticky rice from Viewpoint Cafe on Koh Kood.

Best new discovery: Thai crepes, otherwise known as Khun Dao. Mentioned on a previous post and available from the Gourmet Market in Siam Paragon. Easily savoured as a breakfast, snack, or dessert.

Koh Kood: Getting away.

Should one feel the need to “get away” even further from any sort of noise or distraction, Koh Kood is waiting for you.

While we were fully relaxed and content on Koh Chang, the reality that we will probably never be this close to Koh Kood again propelled us to purchase tickets and hop aboard a Bang Bao boat, bound for Koh Chang’s neighbouring island of Koh Kood.

Four hours later, after a quick stop on Koh Mak for lunch, and then transferring to a motorboat, we found ourselves on the Koh Kood’s blissful shores.

Also known as Koh Kut, this small, peaceful island boasts a mere population of 2000 people, spread over its 162 squared kilometers. Its economy is driven by a few laidback fishing villages, some coconut plantations, and the growing presence of resorts. The island is not touristy in any way, so there really isn’t much to “get amongst.”

But if the desire of your heart is to relax beside a beach or paddle through warm, soothing waters, Koh Kood is definitely for you.

Important travel advice: Even though you have booked a return ticket to the mainland, and your hotel calls to confirm this ticket for you, it does not necessarily mean that you will be picked up. We recommend not making any paid travel arrangements (tours, transport, or hotels) until you are back on the mainland, as sometimes travelers are stranded/ forced to spend some extra time on the island, due to being forgotten by their transport company.

But if one is stranded anywhere, a tropical island is a pretty great place for this to happen.

When forced by circumstance to spend an extra day on a tropical island, why not make the most of it? We took advantage of this extra day on Koh Kood, rented a scooter, and ventured out to explore the rest of the island.

A few of our Koh Kood highlights:

A visit to Klong Chao Waterfall. Surrounded by lush greenery, with winged creatures fluttering about, we felt like we had stumbled upon the Garden of Eden. With the whole place to ourselves, a dip in the lagoon (and a turn on the old rope swing) proved tranquil and refreshing.

A coconut ice cream banana split at Viewpoint Cafe. Specializing in homemade desserts and cool drinks, Viewpoint Cafe boasts that it is the best place on Koh Kood to watch the sun go down at the end of the day. We would probably concur with this statement.

A monkey riding a tractor.

This friendly (foot-long) gecko in our room.

By the end of a day adventuring about Koh Kood, we came to resonate more deeply than ever before with these wise words:

“Adventure is misfortune, correctly understood.” Well put, G. K. Chesterton.

Another enjoyable aspect to our Koh Kood experience was getting to know the lovely staff at Koh Kood Resort, most of whom are originally from Cambodia. Sincere, genuine, and warmly hospitable, they were a lovely bunch of young people, with big, gorgeous smiles. Everyone seemed genuinely happy and thankful to be working there, even though most didn’t have or own a lot. Most workers spoke English quite well, and we enjoyed conversing over meal times.

One worker, Paya, ran out and climbed a coconut tree to hack down a fresh coconut for me when the restaurant had run out. A couple of the workers also waited with us on the dock for over an hour while waiting for our boat (which did not come).

It was quite a thought-provoking and humbling experience to get to know this beautiful bunch of people.

Our encounter with these kind Cambodians gave us the feeling that our next destination of Cambodia would hold good things.

Koh Chang: Elephant island.

We purposely wanted to set aside about a week’s time in our journey for rest and relaxation, and to process the major life change we were in the midst of. After doing some research on Thai islands, we found that there were loads to choose from, each with their unique offerings.

To save on travel time, and also based on some recommendations from friends, we chose the island of Koh Chang.

Located in Thailand’s eastern province of Trat, near the Cambodian border, Koh Chang has a population of about 5000 people. The 217 square kilometres that comprise Koh Chang include dense rainforest, a mountainous interior, and gorgeous sandy beaches.

Although fishing is an essential part of the island’s economy, its primary income-generator is tourism. There are also a few coconut plantations and lychee farms on Koh Chang.

Koh Chang boats a laid-back, hippy vibe, making it a very chill and relaxing place to dwell.

One of main factors that made our stay on Koh Chang so awesome was our accomodation.

Nestled up amidst the treetops, away from the bustle and noise of the beach parties, is Oasis.

Comprised of a handful of bungalows scattered up a hillside, just a 10 minute walk from Lonely Beach, Oasis is a haven waiting to be discovered by the traveller seeking rejuvenation.

The main building is a covered, open-air structure which boasts a tasty menu of Thai delicacies and a spacious, comfortable lounge. Many hours were spent here soaking in the chill ambience, planning the next leg of our adventure, and enjoying tasty Thai treats.

Most our nights in the more basic, jungle bungalow, which consisted of a double bed, fan, mosquito net, shelving unit, and a porch with a hammock out front. We loved the open air bathroom attached at the rear. Sunlight streaming in during morning showers, and the stars above at night- amazing.

For one night, we upgraded to the more luxurious air-con bungalows, which are beautifully done-up on the inside.

The owners, from the Netherlands, were super lovely, as were the rest of the staff.

We got to know Urai, one of the Oasis employees, a bit better over lunch one afternoon. Hearing her story was quite neat. Though Urai’s English was quite good, Google Translate helped us out a few times with more topic-specific vocabulary.

Other highlights of Koh Chang:

Fresh coconuts on the beach.

Waters warmer than we ever thought possible.

Exploring the island by scooter.

Sunsets.

Oh, and the elephants.

The name, “Koh Chang,” literally means “elephant island,” a tribute to the shape of its headland. Fittingly, there also happens to be elephants on the island, although they are not native.

One morning, we paid a visit to Ban Kwan Chang Elephant park, a sanctuary for retired elephants. The organization is sponsored by the Asian Elephant Foundation.

It was cool to see that the elephants are well-cared for here, and that most are allowed to roam free about the camp (although the “naughty” ones did have their ankles chained.)

The workers sleep at the camp, amongst the elephants.

We got to ride this beautiful creature named Numwan, through some mangroves.

Early on into our trek, our guide hopped down off the elephant, leaving the elephant to continue the tour un-guided. Mainly, Numwan knew where she was going, though at times she got distracted by tasty-looking plant life along the way.

Brendon was invited to sit on the head of the elephant, an invitation he keenly accepted. Upon return to the camp, we finished off our time at Ban Kwan Chang by feeding the elephants some bananas.

A big shout out to Numwan, our humble elephant, and Oasis, for making our time on Koh Chang so awesome and memorable.

Thoughts on home.

We interrupt the travel stories to bring you a current update on our lives here back in Canada.

Our current location: West Quaco, New Brunswick.

We are here “In the Stillness,” at Brendon’s parent’s place. Brendon’s younger sister, Kendra, got married last weekend, and since then, we have been enjoying reconnecting with family and friends out here, and soaking in the beauty of Canada’s East Coast.

For the past 10 weeks, we have been without a physical abode to call “home.” Through this time, we have questioned where “home” is and what “home” means.

Edmonton was home, so was New Zealand, and we probably won’t have a permanent place to call home for a little while.

It is a bit of an unsettling feeling, although we are very thankful for the benevolence of friends and family who have been willing to take us in while we sort out our lives. We are trying to embrace this unique, nomadic season in our lives, and enjoy sharing life with different people and acquainting ourselves with new places.

Is home a place? Or is it a feeling/state of mind? If ‘home is where the heart is,’ what about when your heart is in multiple locations?

Since leaving New Zealand, ‘home’ has looked like many a hostel or hotel room, a hillside bungalow, a tree house in the jungle, or the cozy basement of friends.

Our current dwelling place is this cute, little cabin, tucked away in the woods on Brendon’s parent’s property.

So for the present, this is home.

Bangkok: Transportation, innovation & degustation.

Bangkok is a city that we loved much more than we thought we would.

Surprisingly, we were not overwhelmed what can be perceived by others as a sensory overload. Bangkok has got some fantastic things going for it- namely, excellent and efficient transport systems, innovative design concepts, and an inspiring food scene. We would have loved to spend more time in this vibrant city, if it were only possible.

Transportation

Bangkok has some effective, well-established transportation systems which allow people to get around quickly and independently.

Its fabulous train system is comprised of three main lines, and can get you to most ends of the city, as well as most things inbetween. We stuck primarily to the train lines, and got to see a good number of the spots in the city this way. One night, we stopped off at Si Lom Station to join 300+ others for some outdoor aerobics in Lumpini Park.

In 34 degree heat (at 6:30pm), it was a fun but moist time. We struggled did our best to follow along, but enjoyed taking part in some physical activity with the locals.

Bangkok also sports a reliable system of boats which transport people up and down the Chao Phraya river, making it possible to reach destinations which run alongside the river, such as Asiqatique and a large number of temples.

Innovation

Siam Centre evidences some of the innovation and design taking place within Bangkok’s shopping scene.

A melding of inspiring architecture, design, fashion, and food await at this inspiring complex.

From the physical encasings of the shops, to the way that merchandise was displayed, we were very much impressed and inspired by the innovative concepts in design.

At times, it almost felt like we were in some sort of wearable arts/design museum.

We were stoked to discover that Greyhound Bus Lines has apparently inspired a line of clothing as well as the menu at a cafe/restaurant.

In honor of my dad, Andy, a 30+ year Greyhound employee, we paid a visit to Greyhound Cafe.

The “happy toast” and lavender ice cream were both highly commendable, and the overall experience rated excellent.

Another unique eating establishment which caught our attention was Mr. Jones’ Orphanage. We actually didn’t end up eating there, but the concept of a restaurant that serves only deserts and sweet beverages, in little booths, with teddy bears floating about it just rather cute, don’t you think?

Degustation

Bangkok is home to a wide variety of delicious food options. If you want it, Bangkok probably has it. Food stalls line most streets, so if you are feeling daring, you can pick up a tasty meal off the street for next to nothing, or enjoy a (hopefully) more hygienic meal prepared in a restaurant for a bit more.

We were beyond delighted to discover- right next to Siam Centre- the foodie mecca known as Siam Paragon. A stroll through the gourmet food market will leave one asking, “How can so many delicious things be available in one place?” From the everyday soups to the unique sweet treats, this gathering of Thai culinary artisans has got everything a foodie in Thailand could possibly desire.

A few standouts come to mind:

The Chiang Mai sausage, a pork sausage packed with the herbs that Thai cuisine is famous for, served witha spicy green chili paste (in the style of Northern Thai food). It was full-flavored awesome.

One of Breno’s favorites was the dried, shredded pork. This was a taste experience which brought together past experiences with beef jerky, pulled pork, and cotton candy! Sweet, and just a bit spicy, it was awesome. (Served with sticky rice).

The traditional Thai crepe won my heart at first bite. Once discovered, I begged Brendon each day we were in Bangkok to return to Siam Paragon to indulge in these sweet thai delicacies.

The flourless crepe, made from a mixture of egg and coconut, is grilled until firm then dressed with sweet and savoury versions of toppings, before the crepe is ever so gently rolled by the delicate fingers of Boon, the crepe connoisseur. These Thai crepes are culinary masterpieces.

We tried to scratch as much of Breno’s street food itch here in this controlled sanitary environment, but we did do a bit of dabbling in the real thing. Thai fried chicken was great, and the street pad thai by our hotel the last few days was delish. We also managed to find an IPA at El Osito, rescuing Breno from hop withdrawl.

In other words, Bangkok was easy to navigate, inspiring, and extremely tasty. Though known for its smog, chaos, and noise, Bangkok is really a tourist-friendly city with so much to offer.